Ilocos Norte: Far from the Madding Crowd
Different people have different ideas about what makes a good vacation. Typically, they seek a change of environment so that people living in rural settings seek to visit the big cities, while those in the urban centers travel to distant places where they can be away from their daily dose of hordes of people, traffic, pollution, noise, and haste.
Tucked away in the northwestern corner of Luzon, the largest of the Philippines’ 7,107 islands, is a province named Ilocos Norte. Lying almost 500 kilometers from the capital city of Manila, the province is relatively remote requiring a 10-hour ride by bus, or an hour’s flight.
Explored by the Spanish conquistadors and Christianized by the Augustinian friars in the late 16th Century, Ilocos Norte is a land of imposing churches and belfries. Notable among them is the St. Augustine Church in the town of Paoay –an earthquake-proof edifice in baroque architecture that is included in the World Heritage Sites List of UNESCO. North of Paoay is Laoag City where you can find the Sinking Bell Tower. Although it now stands 45 meters, the very low entrance where one has to stoop to enter is seen as evidence that it used to be taller. Indeed, stories abound that in the olden times a man on a horseback can easily ride into the tower.
There is life in Ilocos Norte beyond its churches and belfries. Barely seven kilometers to the west of the sinking tower is an expanse of sand dunes abutting the South China Sea and providing an awe-inspiring vista. Enterprising locals offer tourists an exciting ride up and down the steep slopes on 4 x 4 jeeps and for those who want to get close to the sand, sandboards, which are used like snowboards, are available.
The beaches of Pagudpud are Ilocos Norte’s answer to the more famous beaches of Boracay. White sand and calm and clear blue water entice swimmers and snorkelers to spend the entire day just playing and lazing in the sun. Motorized sea crafts are not allowed in the area assuring you of a clean and pollution-free environment.
To the southeast of Pagudpud, the Cordillera Mountain Range begins to rise. Nestled within these mountains is the town of Adams, the ultimate in getting away from it all. With a population of 1,800 souls dispersed over 160 square kilometers of pristine forests crisscrossed by countless rivers and streams, Adams is anything but crowded. You can trek to the 18 waterfalls scattered all over the town and dive into their refreshingly cool waters. There are 10 hanging bridges linking the hillsides with each other. If you are a little adventurous, you can hire a motorcycle and speed through the swaying hanging bridges. And you can celebrate your successful run with a glass of Tapuey, a local rice wine, or Bugnay, wine made from wild cherries. These will also help keep you warm on those chilly nights in Adams.